Janes and Hooch Bar

A licensed bar paying homage to America’s prohibition era feels rather discordant, like a diabetes-themed sweet shop, or a brauhaus made to look just like an AA meeting. Still, Janes and Hooch executes its Chicago-style speakeasy theme with aplomb; walk through the unmarked entrance to be taken back in time. Exposed brick and wood-paneled walls, polished cement floors and a weathered tin ceiling are bathed in flickering candlelight. In fact, it’s so dark that it’s impossible to read the menu without holding a candle – or, a real mood-killer, your phone – to the menu. And with no cops to dodge, it feels like it’s taking the theme unnecessarily far – though if you can get past the darkness, the décor is glamorous without being ostentatious.

The seasonal menu of ten lesser-known cocktails (70-80RMB) is well selected and warming. The perfectly crafted concoctions, made by bow-tied mixologists, are served in cut-crystal glasses along with a palate-cleansing cucumber-flavoured water. To sip here with a close companion on a cold winter’s night as jazz saxophone wails in the background is an absolutely transcendental experience; something to be cherished. We savoured every sip of our Chicago fizz (rum, ruby port, citrus, gomme syrup and egg white) as the initial zingy affront of the citrus gave way to the smooth, almost creamy, egg white – refreshing and devilishly moreish. The Dark and Fruity – a heavenly, indulgent blend of black rum, seasonal berries, bitter marmalade and ginger beer – also went down as smoothly. Of the short drinks, the Mister Hemingway (rum, maraschino, grapefruit, citrus) packed a zesty, Capone-like punch that made us want to party like it’s 1929. Aside from the cocktails, a selective menu of champagne, bourbon, rye and whiskey is on offer, though some of the more expensive tipples are only available by the bottle. As we sat at the bar we overheard groups of young, attractive – well, in the low light at least – professionals already making return visits, bringing along their uninitiated friends and vociferously enthusing about the drinks. As it’s a new bar from some of the guys behind Apothecary and d Lounge we should’ve expected nothing less. Get there soon; this place will be packed before long.